Mechanism for attaching welts to shoes.



D. W. SHANAHAN.

MECHANISM FOR ATTACHING WELTS T0 SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 19, 1914.

1 ,1 98,670. Patented Sept. 19, 1916.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DANIEL W. SHANAI-IAN, 0F LOWELL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO CHAMPION SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION OF MISSOURI.

MECHANISM FOR ATTAGI-IING WELTS TO SHOES.

Application filed September 19, 1914.

This invention relates to mechanism for making shoes, and more particularly, to

mechanism for attaching a welt to a McKay lasted shoe by a metallic seam passing through the insole.

Many attempts have been made to attach a welt to the lasted upper of a McKay shoe by a seam passing through the welt, upper and insole,'but without success, for the reason that it is exceedingly diliicult, and, as a matter of fact, practically impossible to properly position the welt on such an upper with the required accuracy. In the methods and mechanisms heretofore employed for that purpose, the horn has generally been utilized as a gage for gaging the position of the seam with respect to the lasted shoe. It is, however, impossible to obtain, in this manner, a seam which will be positioned close, uniformly and accurately with respect to the contour of the shoe. If this seam is not placed uniformly and close to the contour of the shoe, the shoe will not only present an undesirable appearance, but will not be water-tight and of sufficient strength to withstand wear.

It is possible to guide the shoe by the contour of the insole. In operating upon this shoe, however, the last is withdrawn, and the shoe is supported on a horn and is fed by an awl engaging the welt and the insole. Now, the majority of insoles used in this type of shoe are flexible and light, and some of them are of low grade material and flimsy. It has been found, therefore, that, in withdrawing the last from such a shoe, there is a liability of pulling the shoe out of shape. During the attachment of awelt, and during the feeding of the shoe over the horn, there is a further liability of pulling the shoe out of shape during this welt attaching operation.

variable extension. Thus, in the shank the extension is small, being only suflicient for the outsole stitcher to properly support the shoe when sewing the outsole to the welt.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 19, 1916.

Serial No. 862,525.

At the ball, however, the extension is greater than at the shank, and this extension is greater on the outer than onthe inner ball. It is, of course, obvious that a guide operating from the insole contour will not give this extension unless a movable guide, adjustable by the operator during the operation of the machine, is used. Such adjustment is, however, objectionable, for the reason that it requires the attention of the'operator, and, therefore, decreases the output of the machine.

One of the objects of this invention, therefore, is to devise mechanism for attaching a welt to a lasted upper by a seamof metallic fasteners passing through the insole, whereby the welt is laid on the upper so as to give an accurate extension and so as to accurately place the seam.

Anot-her object is to devise mechanism for attaching a welt to a lasted upper, whereby the shoe is guided and the welt and seam positioned by a predetermined contour or templet on the lasted upper.

Another object is to provide mechanism whereby the welt is positioned and secured with a varying extension corresponding to the varying extension of the outsole.

Further objects will appear from the detail description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a detail front elevation of a fastener inserting machine embodying this invention; Fig. 2 is a detail side elevation; Fig. 3 is a bottom view of the guide; Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4li, Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a perspective view. of the guide; Fig. 6 is a bottom view of a shoe upper with the templet in position and the welt attached; Fig.

7 is a section .on the line 7, Fig. 6; Fig. 8

is a view similar to Fig. 7, but with the templet removed and the outsole attached; Fig. 9 is a section on the line 99, Fig. 7 Fig. 10 is a section on the line 1010, Fig. 8; and, Fig. 11 is an enlarged detail of Fig. 10.

The machine may be any suitable fastener inserting machine,.such as shown and describedin U. S. Patent Number 1,091,298,

' March 24, 1914, but theparticular embodiment shown is that shown and described in In a shoe the welt must necessarily have a U. S. application Serial Number 830,050, filed April 6, 191%. In this machine, as shown in detail in Figs. 1 and 2, 10 designates acolumn or pillar supporting a machine head 11. This machine head has mounted thereon a presser-foot 12, a vertically and laterally movable awl bar 13 carrying a piercing and feeding awl let, a later ally movable throat 15, a driver 16, a fastener stock guide 17, a combined feeding and cuttin member 18, and a cooperating cutter 19 on the throat. The usual horn 20, having a clenching anvil, is also provided. All these parts are of the construction shown and described in the application referred to, but may also be of the construction described in the patent referred to, and may use the same string of connected headed nails.

The presser-foot has secured thereto, by s "ews the shank 26 of a velt guide 27 which is positioned at an angle with respect to and extends underneath the presser-foot. This welt guide comprises an upper plate 29, cut away at 30 to permit entrance of the awl, and a lower plate 31 to form a recess or channel adapted to receive and guide the welting. The end of tie welt guide projects a short distance below the presser-foot so as to form a. guide or gage face 32 adapted to cooperate with a contour on the outer insole face on the lasted upper, as hereinafter described. The presser-foot may also have projectin therefrom and opposite the driver a lug 55 whose forward edge is in alincment with the face 32 of the welt guide so as to cooperate with a contour on the insole. It is understood that either the face 32 or the lug may be used for guiding the shoe, or both may be used in conjunction.

The shoe comprises an insole 10 and an upper 41 lasted in accordance with the usual McKay method of lasting. The lasted upper has laid thereon a welt 13 secured thereto by a seam of metallic fasteners ll passing through and clenched on the insole. This fastener may be of substantially the construction shown and described in U. S. Pat ent Number 1,072,213, September 2, 1913. An outsole 45 is attached to the welt by a line of stitches 46, and the space between th insole and outsole may be filled with the usual filling 17.

The operation of the mechanism in attach ing the sole or bottom to this shoe is as follows: The upper is lasted in accordance with the usual McKay method of lasting. A contour or templet 42 of leather, leather board or the like, is then positioned on the lasted upper while on the last and temporarily secured by fasteners 18. This templet is died out or shaped to the contour of the outsole, but smaller, and is positioned on the upper in the same relation thereto as the outsole in the completed shoe. The last is then withdrawn with this templet in position, and this templet Will, therefore, reinforce and hold the shoe in shape while the last is being withdrawn. The shoe is now placed on the horn with the edge of the templet against the gaging face 32 of the v. elt guide, or against the gaging face of the lug 33, or both, and the machine started. its the machine starts, a fastener will be driven through the welt, upper and insole and clenched on the insole by means of the clenching anvil on the horn. The end of the welt is thus attached to the lasted upper, and, during the operation of the machine, the awl will operate to successively f ed the welt and the shoe by the engagement of the awl with the welt, upper and insole. The shoe is guided, during the attachment of the welt, by the engagement of Lao guiding face 32 of the welt guide, or the guiding face of the lug with the edge of the templet, and since the welt is guided and positioned by this welt guide, the shoe will be accurately positioned with r spect to the welt guide and the welt therein, so as to ac curately position the welt with respect to the lasted upper. Since the outline of the templet corresponds to the outline of the outsole, it is, of course, obvious that the welt will be positioned in such a relation with respect to the shoe as to correspond in outline, as well as size, to the outsole. After the welt is attached, the templet a2 is removed, the bottom filled with a filling i7, and the outsole t5 laid and attached on an outsole stitcher in the manner described in 1y application Ser. No. 862,524, filed of even date herewith. As herebefore described, the tanplet is placed in position while the shoe is on the last, and before the last is withdrawn. This not only permits the templet to be accurately positioned with respect to the upper, since any gaging mechanism used for placing this templet in position may e gaged from the last, but it also holds the shoe in shape while the last is withdrawn. It also stiffens the shoe while the welt is attached, and the operator can, therefore, hold the shoe in better shape. Since the guide follows the edge of the templet, and since the outline of the templet corresponds to the outline of the outsole, it will be seen that the welt will have the same extension as the outsole, and, where the outsole has a varying extension, the welt can be laid with a varying extension, corresponding to that of the outsole, by giving the templet the proper contour so as to give this extension. The welt will, therefore, be placed in such a manner as to make a correct and uniform edge. Since the welt is placed accurately with the outer edge corresponding to the outline of the outsole this outsole can he died out to shape, so as to fit the outline of th welt, while placed on the lasted upper. This not only permits the outsole to laid with greater accuracy, but also permits the usual rough-rounding operation performed on welt shoes to be dispensed with, thereby resulting not only in a saving of time, but also in a saving of material. In practice, therefore, after the outsole is attached, it is only necessary to shape up the sole. The templet can be used a number of times, and since it can be made of a cheap material, its expense will be very small.

It is obvious that various changes may be made in the details of construction without departing from the spirit of this invention, and it is, therefore, to be understood that this invention is not to be limited to the specific construction described and shown.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. Mechanism for attaching Welts to McKay lasted shoes, comprising, a horn adapted to support a McKay-lasted upper, fastener inserting mechanism, welt guiding means, and means cooperating with a contour separate from the welt and positioned on the outer insole face of the lasted upper adapted to position the shoe with respect to the Welt.

2. Mechanism for attaching welts to shoes, comprising a horn adapted to support a lasted upper, fastener inserting mechanism welt guiding means, a templet on the lasted upper adapted to give a variable extension to the welt, and means cooperating with said templet adapted to guide the lasted upper to position the welt thereon.

3. Mechanism for attaching welts to shoes comprising a horn adapted tosupport a lasted upper, a presser foot, fastener inserting mechanism, welt guiding means, and means projecting below said presser foot and adapted to cooperate with a templet on the outer face of the lasted upper to guide the same and position the welt thereon.

3. Mechanism for attaching Welts to shoes comprising a horn adapted to support a lasted upper, fastener inserting mechanism, welt guiding means, a templet on the lasted upper shaped to the contour of the outsole, and means cooperating with said templet adapted to guide the lasted upper to position the welt thereon.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in the presence of these two witnesses.

DANIEL W. SHANAHAN.

l/Vitnesses:

ALVIN R. TETLEY, FRED S. KIMBALL.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, I). O. 

